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cool looking box!!
we have deep snow in our area...
so I would have done a bit taller on the base..
at least 36 inches...
darn drifts here!! lol!!
and look in to air pre heater for the inside of the box if your temps are cold..

the breather tubes have been causing issues on ng and lp…
ice in the tube or intake box...
they make the plug in heaters that are stick on if you are metal air box..
and for honda they make breather heater kits.

and there are kits for generac and kohler as well

cool low cost idea on your quiet box!!
make sure you have your serial number and receipt for insurance...
gens like to walk off!

that is why I use block and concreate and steel doors..
way more expense!!
but I have yet to have one broken in to!
lol I make them work for it!!
 

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we ordered a us carb kit today for the honda eu7000is on another job.
I will post when we get that on the gen and tested here in the shop before placing on site!!

so drmerdp what did they tell you on size for the hose and quick connects to feed the demand regulator on natural gas???

after all these are just a gx 390!!

I have here 1/2 id ng hose with 3/8 pipe disconnects that we use on most of our setups...
 

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one inch black pipe line from the meter to the gen manifold with a shut off close to the meter T
and then more shut offs at the manifolds

and yes use real brass ball valves made for natural gas!! 600 psi valves!
jomar for the main 1 inch. zoro had the deal on those.

the heck if it is they neck it down super heavy right after the demand regulator...
we had found the 3/4 id hose was way over kill for each honda eu7000is gens natural gas to each demand regulator..
and the larger hose takes way more natural gas to purge the air out..

only one end of the feed hose male is open the other coupler side has a valve in the coupler..
 

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Well that’s plenty of supply. Agreed bigger hoses take way longer to purge. I have remote start on my current champion generator and even installed a prime solenoid on the demand regulator that is powered during cranking. Still always needS 6 crank attempts to start.

I have 5’ of 3/4 black pipe from my inside ball valve then 6’ of 3/4 hose leading to the demand regulator. I originally designed the system for my previous house which had natural gas... now I’m on propane. So the 3/4 hose is oversized.

Here’s a solution... I plan to remote start my eu7000 and use a normally closed electric ball valve right before the demand regulator to keep The gas line primed. I can simply tap into the key on source from the generator to power the ball valve. Cycle time is 4-5 seconds.

The demand regulators are technically sealed closed until engine vacuum pulls it open, but I can’t In good conscious trust it to be pressurized and primed for long term standby.

Standby generators use the same principle but use a solenoid valve.
what brand and model of electric ball valve are you looking at?
yea I agree on the purge time.
I used time relays for line purge.
the longer the no pressure line from the demand reg to the gen plate or injector the longer the purge or prime time.
 

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Curious, Wondering what your impressions are of the uscarb trifuel kit. Especially the functionality of switch between fuels.
time will tell on the new ng kit.
it just landed a few hours ago.
the gen will be back here this next week for the mod.
they just switch off the injection pump and then you jack in to natural gas and turn on your natural gas supply.

pretty slick for the bucks!
less than 500.00 for the basic kit.
then you need the long hoses and fittings as well as all the connections at the house.
and easy extra 200-300 in parts or more depending on your location of the gen to the meter.

the setup I will be using it on will be close to the gas and electric meters (15 foot)
I will have pix etc on the honda gen forum.

way cheaper than the ng injection systems that I build!! (over $5k plus the gen)
but this $500 buck kit is not injected for the natural gas.

we will see how the newer eu7000i likes this kit...

update the tri fuel us carb kit rocks!
works perfect on NG!
a big note: make sure to run larger hoses at least 3/4 if it is longer than 4 foot to the NG connection to the demand regulator.
i have short hose runs, so the 1/2 id works ok!
and i have 1 inch id NG black pipe up to the valve and quick coupler.
 

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what is the resistance on the valve coil?
and i see it is at 12 volts and just less than 2 amps.
see if they have a 24 volt version of the coil as it is 12 volt... as the resistance is higher on the 24 volt.
and lower current when on 12 volt for less heat.
same on the relays. use 24 volt relay coils when you can.
at least on the stuff that maybe on for a week or more.

sounds like that might be a prime sol or valve.
those are hard snapping fast action on off style for a burst of lp through an orifice.
higher current on those...

make sure to use an adjustable timer in partial seconds on the prime on the demand regulator for start
it is less time to prime on lp.
they also make bottle crackers for the lp bottle valves.
a basic servo motor with a clutch to operate the bottle valve.

pm if you need part numbers
 

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cool on the kit!
i question the dia on the small hose restriction...
on the button manual prime i think it kicks the demand wide open on flow.
that is mostly a 7/16 opening.
then restricted at the carby plate or the load block...

so i would place the prime injection after the load block in your kit.
i will have to get some octal base timers on the tri fuel kit page.
does the us carbs kit have a choke output for the 7000is?
it is done inside the computer for the fi burst when cold temps it over fuels on the injection at first crank.
that is why i used fi on the big clients ng setup for the 7000is...
i could burst the NG injection for prime by the temp and the afr on the lamda system.
cool on the computer injection i used for that system.
and no power loss on ng as the computer did the fuel map.
it did a solid perfect 5500 watts on ng for 100 hours on the testing of the first one.

check your pm
 

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client with cell towers on pipeline.
BIG bucks system.
they are still working on the solar part.
covid hit and no ultra high output solar panels that they liked for the system.
the solar plant was in woohan.
they are still shut down.
 

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BIG numbers!!
real big
they changed the oil socks at 5000 hours.
just as a pm. and have changed the others socks at the 5 k hours.
the oil samples was just as clean as 200 hrs before the sock change.

the first gen is at 19k hours and still on the original 60 gallon batch of royal purple 5/30.
the numbers are perfect.
and still no blow by yet.
 

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make sure to use dielectric grease on all of the connections as well as the battery terms
and on the legs of the blade fuses... if they are the aluminum legs on the fuses they tend to corrode over time.

nice on the prime sol mod!

one other mod we did was to use female on all of the LP / NG hose ends and then use a double male dog bone to connect...
that way the the female has that plunger valve inside to hold the vapor charge to cut down on the prime needed when you pull out the system to work on it like oil changes etc.
unless the LP / NG hoses are long enough to reach...

easy mod for later!
 
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