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ha the coil must to have cooked out?
yea I would keep one coil with cap on hand as well as pull rope, spark plug, air filters.
I also keep recoil assy's on hand at least one for each gen.
I have a good link for parts at
HONDA_GENERATOR
there is a parts coupon there you can use at check out for % off.
they are in the Omaha area for fast shipping every where in the lower 48 usa.

glad to hear you are up ok!!
yea I have a good story on a eu1000i unit!!
almost as good as this one!!
super hard to find issue on a no run.
if the gang wants to hear the story I can start a new post.
Always up for a good story, I have an eu1000 also.
 

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G'Morning flolks! This is the first post on this forum. There's a wealth of info in this thread and I need it.

My EU7000is is a touch over two years old and has a bit over 1500 hrs on it. Late this summer I went over it and changed the air and fuel filters, cleaned the tank, adjusted the valves, cleaned the spark arrestor, etc. This unit is critical for us as we are 100% solar but lose sunlight for about 2.5 months in the winter and need this genset to keep the batteries charged.

Recently I started getting the E-0A error (O2 sensor) which could be caused from a myriad of things. I checked it over and nothing obvious so, what the heck, I changed the spark plug which was the original. It looked great. That seem to have solved it for two weeks until this morning. I have an autostart triggered by the inverter but the genset never made it through the 4 minute warm up and shut down with the E-0A again. I'm temped to remove the spark plug and put it back in to buy me another two weeks (wink, just kidding). Seriously, I need to find the real source before winter really sets in the the season.

I'll start with the fuel cap ajar. Then pull the O2 sensor and check that harness. The unit is pretty tight and I've never seen evidence of rodents getting into the Honda - darn critters have cost me a lot of money on other equipment over the years. I don't think its fuel delivery as when this first happened an attempt to manually restart after the shut down caused a backfire in the exhaust from fuel fumes built up. Then check the low oil sensor. I don't have any way to test the coil other than a visual of the spark plug arc. Then I'll go from there.

Thanks again for all the good info.
JRH
 

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Pull the O2 sensor and clean it. If the EU7000is doesn't run long enough to generate full operating heat, it'll get clogged up over time.
8450

Well this should answer the question. It was under the cover when I went to check the Oil level switch. Cleaned and reassembled. The genset is purring away right now. Stinkers.
 

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good one!
loose rat in the gen set!!
yea check the air temp and air pressure sensor as well
it is tied in to the lambda fuel system.
they can give a cross flag on the codes.
Thanks folks. I didn't see any evidence of bites on the Oil Pressure lead but I did reseat the barrel connector. In the time since I fully broke the unit in (2nd oil change), I have left the econ mode on year around. But I set the solar inverter for four minutes for warm up in the winter and two minutes in warmer weather. This year as the winter weather rolls in the unit will shut down has the solar inverter connects. The inverter loads softly but even so the generator immediately shuts down. So there is still something going on.... This AM it loaded normally with the ECO off but the engine isn't running its normal smoothness with no load.

Yup. It's time to start checking sensors.
 

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four minutes for warm up in the winter and two minutes in warmer weather
That doesn't seem like a long enough warm-up for an EFI system. Per page 29 of your manual:

STARTING THE ENGINE: Make sure the Eco-Throttle switch is in the OFF position, or more time will be required for warm-up. If you wish to use the Eco-Throttle system, turn the Eco-Throttle switch to the ON position after the engine has warmed up for 2 or 3 minutes.

I bet you'd need at least a 5 minute warmup in summer and maybe 10 minutes in winter for the exhaust system to come up to EFI sensing temp. It's probably running on default map prior to that.
In an electronic fuel injection system for an internal combustion engine an oxygen sensor tests the exhaust gas for oxygen content and provides a feedback signal for fuel/air mixture control. During cold start and engine warm-up the oxygen sensor is inoperative and mixture is controlled as a function of engine temperature. During this phase the mixture may be excessively lean causing rough engine running.
Definitely check your O2 sensor for fouling...
 

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That doesn't seem like a long enough warm-up for an EFI system. Per page 29 of your manual: ...
Definitely check your O2 sensor for fouling...
Found it. It's the oil sensor. Most often the genset auto starts so I'm not in front of it. Today I was running manually from the panel and there it was: oil error. No error mode logged - just the light momentarily and a display error as it shut down. Checked the oil and it was fine. Disconnected the sensor and it ran wonderfully. Ran smooth, ECO or not. In 1500 hrs it has not used any oil so I'm not too worried. Next oil change in 50 hrs I'll pull it and test. Dang, its just a grounding switch. $5k gamble but I have bought a powerball ticket with worse odds.

BTW, this is critical timing. I'm changing over from Trojans to SimpliPhis and have to charge them off line to full SOC. I can't have the genset choking out mid charge. I think I have it solved.
 
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It's the oil sensor.
Yeah, you were supposed to check that way back at thread post #20... Figured you'd already done that. When you add onto an existing thread we all figure you've exhausted the prior troubleshooting steps.
 

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here are a few good injection test tools
pressure gauge
https://amzn.to/38eCI1i

injection pulse tool
https://amzn.to/2SrobJ6
now I have used the injection pulse tool for automotive on throttle body
as a limp home tool!!
pretty cool indeed!!
not for the at home guy...
but in a pro shop it is nice to be able to pull a car in the shop under its own power if the computer has died!

and this can prove a point on yours will it run..
and it is used for cleaning the injectors with solvent so you can activate the injector while the solvent is injected.
cool tool indeed!

I still think manual the throttle and see if it will speed up.
and put gauges on the fuel while running

meter on the fuel pump power
high voltage test light inline on spark

hey have you by passed the low oil sensor yet?
and what is your oil level?
it should the to the top of the bottom thread on the oil fill.
or just barely running out the fill lip.

low oil and run speed will trigger a shutdown for low oil.
you should get the red light during the event..
but if it is boarder line to low it will auto reset when the speed is low or engine off.

caution make sure your oil level is full before doing this below test!
there is a yellow wire on the side of the case with a bullet plug just unplug it for test only.


yea the video is a chonda. champion.
but they are the same deal on all small honda and chonda engines.
these level sensors are notorious for sticking and failing.
heck the champion gen video is on a brand new unit!! lol
that should tell you something about the reliability on these sensors.
some level sensors get gunked over time. and a good crank case clean helps to flush out the junk.
then make sure you use Castrol 10-30 oil (honda preferred oil) or any good synthetic 10-30 oil
did you blow out the fuel lines as well??
could be left over water in the lines.

humm on the zero hours!!
good job on the water!!

so when it throttles up it dies???
or when it throttles down??

you might think throttle body assy
Honda Power Equipment 16400-Z1C-C01 - BODY ASSY., THROTTLE (BLH0A A) : PartsFish.com

with a few hours on it... it could be bad...

the zero hours is a puzzle!!

is the oil to the top of the thread on the oil fill??
low oil will cut out spark..

put a spark indicator inline with the spark plug.
so when it quits watch to see if you are loosing spark..

then the other thing is a bit tricky
test light on the injector wire feed to see if when it quits see if you are loosing injector pulse..

if both stay on during the shut down I would suspect the fuel pump is locking or loosing power
and yes a test light to the fuel pump power during the shut down would show poser loss to the fuel pump.

the fuel pump is a g rotor style...
the water in the tank could to have caused the pump to start to fail..
they get loud if they are worn...

just a few things to look at!!
lol if you were close I would say drop over with the gen!!
it will be a good one when you find it!!
I have an EU7000is with similar issue. Start , surge then shut down, then it threw an E-0A code. tested the injector, pump and the throttle assembly motor. All tested good. Turned out to be a sticky throttle valve. A little wd-40 to loosen it up. Works like new again.
 

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This may seem simple and, you may have already checked but I have found that if the spark arrestor is not cleaned, religiously, it will cause your symptoms. The engine sputters then dies. I have two 3000is gennys and have removed the arrestor simply because it is a major pain the a$$ to get at it. The 7000is is easy, two screws and out it comes.

Hope this helps.
 

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This may seem simple and, you may have already checked but I have found that if the spark arrestor is not cleaned, religiously, it will cause your symptoms. The engine sputters then dies. I have two 3000is gennys and have removed the arrestor simply because it is a major pain the a$$ to get at it. The 7000is is easy, two screws and out it comes.

Hope this helps.
if you are not camping sure!
just remember to place the gen set where sparks from the exhaust is not an issue.
 

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You my friend officially need a shop manual. As far as fuel pump inspections go there are 2 tests. Volume and pressure.

Volume is easy,
-Disconnect the fuel line from the injector an place the hose into a graduated cylinder to accurately measure the amount of fuel.
-Turn key to on and press the start button. GCU activates the pump for 5 seconds then shuts off.
-Minimum amount of fuel in that time Should be no less then 55cc (1.9oz)

If it’s less then that suspect the sock(fuel filter attached to the pump) or the pump itself.

Pressure requires special tools. I’m not sure if the quick connect on the injector is a standardized automotive 5/16 or 3/8 connector but if it is, you can finagle a pressure gauge in line. Spec is 43psi.

The honda spec’d tool is part number #074APJ-Z37A100 which appears to have been superseded by #074APJ-Z37A101

Honda 07APJ-Z37A101 Gauge, Fuel Pressure; 07APJZ37A101
Hi! Do you know where I can purchase the EU7000is service manual? Thanks
 

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1. Check to be certain that the fuel tank is venting properly. 2. Pull the O2 sensor in the exhaust (#11 - 35655-Z1C-C01 SENSOR, OXYGEN) and check it for carbon buildup. If it's gunked up, clean it and reinstall. If you have not been running the EU7000is with ECO mode turned off for 10 minutes after startup, start doing so. It takes a while to get the exhaust up to temperature.
Where is O2 sensor?
 

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1. Check to be certain that the fuel tank is venting properly.
2. Pull the O2 sensor in the exhaust (#11 - 35655-Z1C-C01 SENSOR, OXYGEN) and check it for carbon buildup. If it's gunked up, clean it and reinstall. If you have not been running the EU7000is with ECO mode turned off for 10 minutes after startup, start doing so. It takes a while to get the exhaust up to temperature.
Where is O2 sensor?
 
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