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Discussion Starter #21
so, oil level is good, changed again last night to make sure it was clean and fresh. when it decides to shut down, the spark stops and the output light goes out as soon as it starts to shut down, once it decides to shut down it dies exactly as it would on a manual shut down. it seems like it sees a problem and cuts spark, no low oil light or any other problem indication. it never saves itself when it starts to go out. though it will stumble a bit before it goes out. the spark cap looks good and the coil tested fine in ohms. this unit is on its 3rd computer already, every time that went it caused a no start issue. the servo moves fine by hand and the throttle does go up to 3300rpm with eco off, sometimes it ramps up and immediately shuts down and sometimes it will hold 3300rpm for 10-30 secs with a few hiccups then die flat out. but eco will hold steady for an hour. I wish I could afford to try another GCU, the pricing on that fluctuates, was $270 last time I ordered one, now it's $370. I feel like there's some untraceable harness issue somewhere that is destroying computers on this particular unit. it's such a headache. gonna keep testing today.
 

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It seems to me like a fuel related issue.
I'm not experienced with the new F. I. Honda. But from reading the posts, the way it sputters before stopping, I keep thinking 'fuel'.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
same, seems like either the pump or injector stop receiving power. I've got to rig up a test light and see.
 

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he just stated that the spark stops...

It seems to me like a fuel related issue.
I'm not experienced with the new F. I. Honda. But from reading the posts, the way it sputters before stopping, I keep thinking 'fuel'.
he just stated that the spark stops...
only a couple of things will do that..
the big one is the low oil sender..
easy to eliminate it!! unplug it! single yellow wire on the side of the block.

from there it is extensive testing or just part change out...
as it has not quit totally yet..
lol it is easy to find if it totally would not start, some thing would be shorted or open.

we will get more info more when he gets to check the yellow wire.
 

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yea gen control unit 383.00 as of this am 02/08/2020

so,I wish I could afford to try another GCU, the pricing on that fluctuates, was $270 last time I ordered one, now it's $370. I feel like there's some untraceable harness issue somewhere that is destroying computers on this particular unit. it's such a headache. gonna keep testing today.
yea gen control unit 383.00 as of this am 02/08/2020
https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/p/honda_power_equipment/34110-z37-a32/control-unit-generator
 

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@iowagold, I did read the OP's comment about spark. There are reasons I said "fuel", the #1 is because we're not there - we can't touchy-feely, can't discern subtle nuances, can't know for certain how testing was done.
I guess, over several decades that I provided tech support I learned lessons about what people report, what your gut tells you and what you eventually find.
Hope that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I'd love it if it were fuel. still hopeful. it defiantly began with fuel... like I said, the problem began with a run out of fuel. since then it hasn't recovered. I've replaced the filter, drained and replaced fuel, found water in it. added stabilizer, ran on eco for 30 min. checked fuel pressure going to injector checked pressure and spray out of injector both were visually good and volume matched spec. replaced the injector for good measure. so, I can't see where else there could be a fuel issue. also, cleaned O2 sensor, checked low oil sensor by grounding wire to frame, that caused shut down as it should and triggered warning light. wire brushed all grounds, cleaned throttle body and checked stepper motor, removed gcu and inspected added dielectric grease to all connections and refit. inspected cap and coil per spec, tested good.

symptoms.
generator shuts down upon load being added after a few moments
generator run OK at idle on ECO.
shut down is complete and clean when it happens, output light goes out before engine dies, no stumble.
 

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Is it possible that there's an issue with the canister 17300-Z11-R30? On a car, if the charcoal canister goes bad, there would be an array of problems like power reduction, fuel odor, pinging, lower fuel economy, and flooding.
 

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Is it possible that there's an issue with the canister 17300-Z11-R30? On a car, if the charcoal canister goes bad, there would be an array of problems like power reduction, fuel odor, pinging, lower fuel economy, and flooding.
loosen the fuel cap eliminated that one.
this is old school lambda fuel system on these units.
basic injection
fuel air spark

the trick on these 7000is systems is to see what make the auto shut down trigger.

most of the time it is connectors not seated.
or corroded if it was exposed to moisture or salt water.

fuel cap is a notorious issue on these units.

he has had water in the fuel.
so rusted fuel pump rotor and high current as well as plugged fuel screen at the injector
and with the 3k hours maybe even air bleeds corked. depending on the area it was ran in.
or how clean the operation site was.

if it was here in the shop
I have test ports for the fi
and plug in lights for the test points made for the harness.

most of these basic things can be done and tested in the field
it just takes time to catch it is the act when it is not just dead.

the no code thing is a big one..
lol
the computer sets a code for if a mouse farts in figi!! lol
not sure why it is not setting any shut down codes..
unless it is a bad key switch or harness break...
add in there only when changing the eco mode..
yea this is going to be a good one!!

I wish it was here in the shop!!
hands on 1/2 an hour and I could pin it out.
takes longer to get the covers off and tank loose up on the 7000is jig.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
so, I noticed that the spark in the tester was intermittently brighter, flashing every sec or so. so, I tested the coil again and got 2.3ohm on the primary and .0ohm on the secondary.
manual spec is 1.8-2.2 on primary and about 5 on secondary.
may not be a smoking gun but, I've got a coil on order.
 

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so, I noticed that the spark in the tester was intermittently brighter, flashing every sec or so. so, I tested the coil again and got 2.3ohm on the primary and .0ohm on the secondary.
manual spec is 1.8-2.2 on primary and about 5 on secondary.
may not be a smoking gun but, I've got a coil on order.


Fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
SOLVED!!! ignition coil! I just pulled a working coil from one of my champions put it in the Honda and viola! it ran perfect one eco and off and held the 1500 watt heat gun on/off on/off.... it was purring, hasn't sounded that nice in awhile. I obviously pulled it back out while I wait the Honda one... so, there ya have it! thanks guys, I hope I can offer as much troubleshooting help as you did sometime.
 

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Okay... well, how about going back to the basics before looking at the GCU. Have you installed and ran the machine with a spark tester? A bad ignition coil will produce a weak spark with low voltage. It would blow out under load and could potentially be weaker as rpms increase.

In theory, there’s a possibility that eco on sitting at 2400rpms might be the running threshold for this condition. When you turn eco off or add a load the engine could stall.

Ignition coil Primary side spec is 1.8 - 2.2ohm
Secondary side spec is 5.6 - 6.9ohm

A visual of the spark with a tester can be highly effective.
Nailed it... woot
 

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always use a spark tester!!

SOLVED!!! ignition coil! I just pulled a working coil from one of my champions put it in the Honda and viola! it ran perfect one eco and off and held the 1500 watt heat gun on/off on/off.... it was purring, hasn't sounded that nice in awhile. I obviously pulled it back out while I wait the Honda one... so, there ya have it! thanks guys, I hope I can offer as much troubleshooting help as you did sometime.
always use a spark tester!!
lol
I live by them as a first things first!
yup a coil flashed over is a good one for sure.
they also had issues with the spark plug caps on the eu2000i units I have those s/n affected on the honda forum.
the spark plug caps can carbon track just like in automotive.

on all of our gen sets make sure you use good brake cleaner to keep the spark wires clean as well as the caps.:tango_face_grin:

a clean gen is a happy gen.

also make sure you drain and clean the fuel tanks every 5 to 10 years on a gen that is used all of the time (rv folks and off grid) fuel filters etc.

stabile for ethanol in the fuel, and seafoam every 6 months.

oh yea if you can avoid ethanol fuel do it! bp gold in most areas has the non ethanol gasoline.

water in the fuel has been a big thing as of late..
has stations running lower on the tanks the water settles lower and gets churned up during the fill or while pumping from the pressure bypass return to the tank.

we have also seen this on diesel fuel.
and the bio diesel bug slime is still a big thing here in the Midwest. hard to get that out of the fuel system..
and it is trashing the injection pumps and injectors.

good job on the spark issue!
"KISS
keep it simple sam!"
good words to live by for sure.
 

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I read this through just for the fun and learning of it (I have a EU6500 converted to NG/Propane). I'd like to say that everyone who contributed is a stellar forum member. How wonderfully helpful and enthusiastic you all are!


Good for you and the OP! Nicely done.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
confirmed, new coil installed today, all reassembled and purrs! I couldn't be happier, was almost ready to give up.
now, hearing it run perfect I can say that the coil must have been failing for sometime now. I would certainly recommend replacing it as part of a maintenance plan every few years.
 

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confirmed, new coil installed today, all reassembled and purrs! I couldn't be happier, was almost ready to give up.
now, hearing it run perfect I can say that the coil must have been failing for sometime now. I would certainly recommend replacing it as part of a maintenance plan every few years.
ha the coil must to have cooked out?
yea I would keep one coil with cap on hand as well as pull rope, spark plug, air filters.
I also keep recoil assy's on hand at least one for each gen.
I have a good link for parts at
HONDA_GENERATOR
there is a parts coupon there you can use at check out for % off.
they are in the Omaha area for fast shipping every where in the lower 48 usa.

glad to hear you are up ok!!
yea I have a good story on a eu1000i unit!!
almost as good as this one!!
super hard to find issue on a no run.
if the gang wants to hear the story I can start a new post.
 
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