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Discussion Starter #1
so, cant figure this one out. my eu7000 has been running great until last week.
it's start to stumble a little and this will continue fir a few minutes until it stalls.
this unit is used daily and has thousands of hours on it. i replaced the fuel strainer/filter, plug, air filter and oil. adjusted valves which were very tight when i checked. still happening, both the fuel pump and injector were replaced about 2 years ago. it's also on it's 3rd GCU and like i said, it's got about 3 thousand hours. i have a new fuel injector on order. looking for some other thoughts on the stalling. it sounds to me like it's not getting enough fuel but, i don't know why. i also blew though the fuel line and its clear.
after stalling, it will usually start up again fine. though one time it took about 20 minutes before wanting to start.
 

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so, cant figure this one out. my eu7000 has been running great until last week.
...it sounds to me like it's not getting enough fuel but, i don't know why.
1. Check to be certain that the fuel tank is venting properly.
2. Pull the O2 sensor in the exhaust (#11 - 35655-Z1C-C01 SENSOR, OXYGEN) and check it for carbon buildup. If it's gunked up, clean it and reinstall. If you have not been running the EU7000is with ECO mode turned off for 10 minutes after startup, start doing so. It takes a while to get the exhaust up to temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks! I just pulled o2 and cleaned. Looked ok. The funny thing is, I’ve run this generator on eco most of the time for the last 5 years. This problem started about a week ago and about 3 weeks ago I switched eco mode off and it’s been that way since. Almost seems like it can keep up fine when eco is on but starts to act like fuel issues with eco off....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
so it just ran great for an hour on eco, as soon as i put a 2000watt load on it it stumbled for about 15 seconds and died.
 

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Have you checked for fault codes? I can’t recall off the top of my head on how, but I have a shop manual at home.Symptomatic diagnosis can be a real crap shoot.

Stupid question Have you check for proper fuel tank venting? I know it’s a high pressure fuel system and not gravity fed but it’s worth a shot.

Also have you checked the Spark arrester in the muffler?
 

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easy to check the fuel cap!!
just leave it loose!!
then see if it is ok then!!
also check the tank for water in the tank!!
we have had a bunch of issues with water in the fuel as of late..
are you running stabile in the fuel??
it helps with the water issues!
also run a batch of seafoam brand to help with the injection..

acts like you have a plugged screen on the fuel!!
do you have an injector tester??
they make flusher tester units where you can look at the spray..
nice to see if you have junk in the nozzle!!
let me know if you need links for those items!!

drain the fuel tank in a clean bucket and check for water!!
and order a spare fuel cap!!
those carbon tall caps are all junk.. I replace them with the shorter caps like on the 6500!!
the gasoline seals the vent on the tall caps!!
no tsb yet on this from honda but it is on the service manual check sheet for fuel issues!!
 

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Checking for codes.

1. Key on.
2. Press and hold the function button for 3 seconds.
3. Cycle through the code list by pressing the function button.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks! so, no error code, no spark arrestor, I do not have an injector tester, but I did pull it and let it shoot into a cup, visually the spray was strong and fairly wide. I have a aftermarket gas cap. I tried running with the cap loose and had the same issue. I think I'll drain the tank and refill in case there's water.
any thoughts on pulling the vent hose off the canister?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
just drained the tank, there was water in it. put in a few oz of stabil and fresh gas. still happening. will run fine with no load on eco, but as soon as I switch it non-eco it dies... out of ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well, on a scary note. I just realized that the hour meter says 0 for hours run... I'm feeling like that's a sure sign of GCU failure
 

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Jees. Well it’s not a dead giveaway but likely, GCU.

I would have thought a bad gcu would cause a no start.

Arguably, Shutting off without displaying an error code could be indicative of a gcu failure as well.
 

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did you blow out the fuel lines as well??
could be left over water in the lines.

humm on the zero hours!!
good job on the water!!

so when it throttles up it dies???
or when it throttles down??

you might think throttle body assy
https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/p/honda_power_equipment/16400-z1c-c01/body-assy-throttle-blh0a-a

with a few hours on it... it could be bad...

the zero hours is a puzzle!!

is the oil to the top of the thread on the oil fill??
low oil will cut out spark..

put a spark indicator inline with the spark plug.
so when it quits watch to see if you are loosing spark..

then the other thing is a bit tricky
test light on the injector wire feed to see if when it quits see if you are loosing injector pulse..

if both stay on during the shut down I would suspect the fuel pump is locking or loosing power
and yes a test light to the fuel pump power during the shut down would show poser loss to the fuel pump.

the fuel pump is a g rotor style...
the water in the tank could to have caused the pump to start to fail..
they get loud if they are worn...

just a few things to look at!!
lol if you were close I would say drop over with the gen!!
it will be a good one when you find it!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
so, I did blow out the lines, all clear, it dies on throttle up. runs fine on ECO. the idea of the water causing pump failure is intriguing because the first time this happened 2 weeks ago was with a complete run out of fuel. so it defiantly would have sucked up a good amount of the water on it's last gasps. since that run out, it won't run again. so, it all started with an initial fuel run out. the pump appears to run fine, if I pull it slightly while the generator is running, I can see the steady stream coming from the pressure release and I get good pressure at the injector. does the pump change speed with the load? I would think the pressure is the same regardless of load and the only change is the injector speed, maybe not? I put the new injector in today and zero change, I guess next part to swap would be the pump? when it dies it certainly seems like it's cutting off the spark because it does really stumble when it shuts down it seems like the computer is detecting an issue and cutting spark, but no codes.
I've stopped the trouble shooting today because its too nasty out and I had to pick up 2 Predator generators to pick up the slack until I can get this on back on its feet.
I also pulled the throttle body off and cleaned that all up today as well. your troubleshooting is great!
 

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You my friend officially need a shop manual. As far as fuel pump inspections go there are 2 tests. Volume and pressure.

Volume is easy,
-Disconnect the fuel line from the injector an place the hose into a graduated cylinder to accurately measure the amount of fuel.
-Turn key to on and press the start button. GCU activates the pump for 5 seconds then shuts off.
-Minimum amount of fuel in that time Should be no less then 55cc (1.9oz)

If it’s less then that suspect the sock(fuel filter attached to the pump) or the pump itself.

Pressure requires special tools. I’m not sure if the quick connect on the injector is a standardized automotive 5/16 or 3/8 connector but if it is, you can finagle a pressure gauge in line. Spec is 43psi.

The honda spec’d tool is part number #074APJ-Z37A100 which appears to have been superseded by #074APJ-Z37A101

https://www.partspak.com/productcart/pc/Honda-07APJ-Z37A101-Gauge-Fuel-Pressure-07APJZ37A101-4550p734382.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #15
so, the volume test is perfect, I get about 2.5 oz. what i'm wondering is if that pressure is supposed to change with load. I would think not right?
 

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so, the volume test is perfect, I get about 2.5 oz. what i'm wondering is if that pressure is supposed to change with load. I would think not right?
Fuel pressure is static. Spec is 43psi.

Since your volume number came back good, I’ll go out on a limb and say your pressure is probably fine too.

Do you have a multimeter to check resistance and continuity? Moving down the line you can check the fuel pump, injector, and throttle control motor electrically.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
fuel pump within spec 3 ohm 0-20ohm
injector is 12ohm 11-13 is spec
throttle is within spec at 70 and 70 spec is 65-75...
 

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fuel pump within spec 3 ohm 0-20ohm
injector is 12ohm 11-13 is spec
throttle is within spec at 70 and 70 spec is 65-75...
Okay... well, how about going back to the basics before looking at the GCU. Have you installed and ran the machine with a spark tester? A bad ignition coil will produce a weak spark with low voltage. It would blow out under load and could potentially be weaker as rpms increase.

In theory, there’s a possibility that eco on sitting at 2400rpms might be the running threshold for this condition. When you turn eco off or add a load the engine could stall.

Ignition coil Primary side spec is 1.8 - 2.2ohm
Secondary side spec is 5.6 - 6.9ohm

A visual of the spark with a tester can be highly effective.
 

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so have you tried the test lights yet??
or did I miss that??
test light on the injector while running to make sure the call for spray is there when it quits..
and the same for a spark tester use the inline to see if the spark is not there when it quits...

hey that is a thought!!
have you replaced the spark cap yet??
there was an tsb on the 2000i and 2200i units for bad casting on the plastic..

and a new coil assy at that may hours might be a good idea..
also check the pickup coils for the spark to make sure they are in spec...

is the speed servo motor working??
and if you change the speed or throttle angle by hand does it work??

I wish it was here!!
LOL!!
this is going to be a good one for sure when you find the smoking gun!!

do you have an extra automotive injection fuel pump around??
easy to get an inline pump and test this...
I use one of these in the shop for injection
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e8312

or you can use an fuel injection test kit
these are on the rental tool at oreilly!!
I just had them order a new one for me!! lol
after renting it every 2 weeks!!
nice for lift pump testing on diesels too!! lots of fittings and even inline too!!
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/evertough-4771/tools---equipment-16488/tools-23747/rental-tools-16837/rental-tools--engine---clutch-19166/f954188cd899/rental-tools-evertough-fuel-pressure-test-kit/67091/4700287?q=fuel+injection+test+kit&pos=9

and the spark test is here
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/s---g-tool-4916/tools---equipment-16488/diagnostic-16546/test---tune-17944/4887d9c7148f/s-g-tool-spark-checker/23970/4711904?q=fuel+injection+test+kit&pos=5

I still suspect the fuel pump... or servo..
or a harness issue...

rare for the computers to be bad!!
and yes there are 2 on these units!!
inverter, and the scm or spark control module that is part of the display in the front panel..
big unit!! lots of parts!! some of it is sealed like the inverter..

I have both the service manuals here.
 

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here are a few good injection test tools
pressure gauge
https://amzn.to/38eCI1i

injection pulse tool
https://amzn.to/2SrobJ6
now I have used the injection pulse tool for automotive on throttle body
as a limp home tool!!
pretty cool indeed!!
not for the at home guy...
but in a pro shop it is nice to be able to pull a car in the shop under its own power if the computer has died!

and this can prove a point on yours will it run..
and it is used for cleaning the injectors with solvent so you can activate the injector while the solvent is injected.
cool tool indeed!

I still think manual the throttle and see if it will speed up.
and put gauges on the fuel while running

meter on the fuel pump power
high voltage test light inline on spark

hey have you by passed the low oil sensor yet?
and what is your oil level?
it should the to the top of the bottom thread on the oil fill.
or just barely running out the fill lip.

low oil and run speed will trigger a shutdown for low oil.
you should get the red light during the event..
but if it is boarder line to low it will auto reset when the speed is low or engine off.

caution make sure your oil level is full before doing this below test!
there is a yellow wire on the side of the case with a bullet plug just unplug it for test only.


yea the video is a chonda. champion.
but they are the same deal on all small honda and chonda engines.
these level sensors are notorious for sticking and failing.
heck the champion gen video is on a brand new unit!! lol
that should tell you something about the reliability on these sensors.
some level sensors get gunked over time. and a good crank case clean helps to flush out the junk.
then make sure you use Castrol 10-30 oil (honda preferred oil) or any good synthetic 10-30 oil
 
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