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The inverter arrived this afternoon. That was quick. Here is the box:

View attachment 13457

It's definitely smaller and lighter than the other inverters. To my surprise, it does indeed have the CO detector. I don't recall that being mentioned on Wal Mart's product page.

View attachment 13458

Overall, it seems like a nice, solid little unit. I'm waiting for the NGK plug to arrive before I prep it to run. I'll put it on the meter and the scope when I get it powered up.
I got mine today also. I'm picking up the NGK plug from Advance Auto Parts tomorrow morning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I got mine today also. I'm picking up the NGK plug from Advance Auto Parts tomorrow morning.
I removed the sides to take a look at the engine. It's a tiny little thing, lol. The plug looks like it's a bit tricky to get to. The top panel doesn't match up exactly with where the plug is located. It makes removing the plug wire difficult using just your fingers. It will likely require gently grabbing on to it with pliers to pop it off. The entire panel has to come off to check or change the oil. It's just 4 screws, so it's not really a big deal.
 

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I went to the Walmart site ready to buy and saw this: "Currently out of stock". DOH!!
I see it listed on the Buffalo Corp website for a tad more than walmart did at $179. Only a couple left tho...

 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
I see it listed on the Buffalo Corp website for a tad more than walmart did at $179. Only a couple left tho...

The Wal Mart version indicates that it is CARB complaint. The model sold by Buffalo indicates it's not CARB compliant. Is there a big difference between the two?
 

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LaSwamp, the spark plug is a challenge to access. It looks easier than it is. I took the Torch plug out last night and got the NGK this morning. I'm going to see if using a 5/8 spark plug socket with small channel lock pliers on the flat sides of the socket makes it easier. I dropped the plug into the gen removing it. That was nerve racking :oops:. I removed the side panel and still had to shake the gen while upside down, the plug thankfully finally fell out and I hadn't yet filled the oil or gas in the gen. The electrode and porcelain are shiny sooty black. Which is strange because the gen has no signs of ever being run. It doesn't smell like gas or oil. I don't have any 10W-30 conventional oil, only an old orphan quart of 5W-30 Shell Formula conventional oil. I think that should work ok for short break in runs with frequent oil changes to get any metal out. After 3 or so changes with the 5W-30 I'll then run 10W-30 synthetic. One quart will give you 4 oil changes. Hopefully Sunday I can take pictures and get the gen running to start the break-in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
LaSwamp, the spark plug is a challenge to access. It looks easier than it is. I took the Torch plug out last night and got the NGK this morning. I'm going to see if using a 5/8 spark plug socket with small channel lock pliers on the flat sides of the socket makes it easier. I dropped the plug into the gen removing it. That was nerve racking :oops:. I removed the side panel and still had to shake the gen while upside down, the plug thankfully finally fell out and I hadn't yet filled the oil or gas in the gen. The electrode and porcelain are shiny sooty black. Which is strange because the gen has no signs of ever being run. It doesn't smell like gas or oil. I don't have any 10W-30 conventional oil, only an old orphan quart of 5W-30 Shell Formula conventional oil. I think that should work ok for short break in runs with frequent oil changes to get any metal out. After 3 or so changes with the 5W-30 I'll then run 10W-30 synthetic. One quart will give you 4 oil changes. Hopefully Sunday I can take pictures and get the gen running to start the break-in.
Thanks for the heads up. I'm planning on replacing the plug this weekend. I'd like to be able to run it for a bit and take some waveforms. The inverter comes with a spark plug wrench so I will try that first. Did you need to do anything special to remove the plug wire?
 

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I don't have any 10W-30 conventional oil, only an old orphan quart of 5W-30 Shell Formula conventional oil. I think that should work ok for short break in runs with frequent oil changes to get any metal out.
That should be okay since it is conventional oil. Be sure to get magnetic drain plug if you can before running it. I don't think they make magnetic dipsticks for those...at least I am not aware of any.
 

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That should be okay since it is conventional oil. Be sure to get magnetic drain plug if you can before running it. I don't think they make magnetic dipsticks for those...at least I am not aware of any.
You drain this gen by turning it over, like a lot of OPE equipment. I guess that 7 1/2 ounces doesn't warrant a drain plug. Just do a dump and fill more frequently. If it's broken in correctly and early that hopefully will limit the metal in the oil, it did with my other generator, snowblower and pressure washer.
 

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You drain this gen by turning it over, like a lot of OPE equipment.
Oh, wow. So, no place to put a magnet. That's a shame because a lot ferrous material gets picked up during the initial break-in, and then it lessens with each oil change after that.

I wonder if this magnetic dipstick would fit. It fits the Yamaha EF1000iS which has a 50cc engine.
 

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Oh, wow. So, no place to put a magnet. That's a shame because a lot ferrous material gets picked up during the initial break-in, and then it lessens with each oil change after that.

I wonder if this magnetic dipstick would fit. It fits the Yamaha EF1000iS which has a 50cc engine.
This is why I do more much frequent oil changes on new small equipment, it pays off. The dipstick on this gen is a compromise. Full, 7 1/2 oz, only registers at the very bottom of the dipstick. You might as well just have a cap without a dipstick and measure where the oil is on the threads of the dipstick holder. That's how my Briggs gen does it and it works. I'll find out on Sunday exactly where 7 1/2 oz is on the dipstick holder threads and the dipstick and use that as the initial "full" level. After it runs a bit I'm sure the initial "full" level will drop a bit as the oil is captured by the engine internals and held. I'll just refill to the initial "full" level and should be good to go.
 

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The Wal Mart version indicates that it is CARB complaint. The model sold by Buffalo indicates it's not CARB compliant. Is there a big difference between the two?
As far as I'm aware (and I could be wrong...), CARB compliant simply means the unit is acceptable for sales in California. EPA and all that good stuff...
Non-CARB compliant would mean (to me anyway), no-go in Cali, doesnt meet their regulations.
Not that it matters, but I doubt none of my junk would meet CARB compliance for a Cali sale.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
As far as I'm aware (and I could be wrong...), CARB compliant simply means the unit is acceptable for sales in California. EPA and all that good stuff...
Non-CARB compliant would mean (to me anyway), no-go in Cali, doesnt meet their regulations.
Not that it matters, but I doubt none of my junk would meet CARB compliance for a Cali sale.
I didn't know if there was anything different about the hardware that made it CARB compliant. Extra parts, perhaps, like additional emissions equipment? Does the manufacturer have to add anything to the inverter so that it will be CARB approved?
 

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I didn't know if there was anything different about the hardware that made it CARB compliant. Extra parts, perhaps, like additional emissions equipment? Does the manufacturer have to add anything to the inverter so that it will be CARB approved?
From what I know, CARB only dictates the maximum amount of emissions an equipment can spew out. They don't tell you what technologies to use. It's the manufacturers job to employ emission-reducing technologies to keep it within the prescribed limits.

Tell-tale signs would be a ventless gas tank with a charcoal cannister, fixed or limited A/F set screw if it still uses a carburetor, catalytic converter, etc. Some manufacturers employ more or less emissions devices than others.

But having the said emissions devices installed is one thing, it still needs to go through the certification process. You can design and make the cleanest-burning gasoline generator in the world, but it will stay non-compliant unless CARB can independently verify and certify that it meets their criteria.
 
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hoses, carbon fuel cap, lean burn carb, and sometimes a cat - muffler.
and yes a carbon vent setup.
yea carb is a thing in cali.
most gens after 2 years of hard run time would fail carb.
that is the reality of why they are pushing for no small engines in cali.
 

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I didn't know if there was anything different about the hardware that made it CARB compliant. Extra parts, perhaps, like additional emissions equipment? Does the manufacturer have to add anything to the inverter so that it will be CARB approved?
There is much info to be found on the world wide web, makes my head spin...lol
Just a quick sampling below

Motor vehicle Product Automotive tire Automotive design Tread


  • Use improved carburetor (most common). Tightening up the machining tolerances and modifying the carb settings allows it to more accurately manage the air-fuel mix ratio and minimize unburnt fuel and incomplete combustion.
  • Engine modifications. Some manufacturers have redesigned piston shape and piston ring to reduce oil use and thus hydrocarbon emission.
  • Engine adjustments. By delaying ignition timing the combustion happens at a lower temperature and pressure reducing amount of smog causing nitrogen oxides created.
  • Use fuel injection systems to deliver fuel in more precise amounts into the cylinder at high pressure. This further decreases the amount of unwanted pollutant byproduts because the combustion process is closer to ideal (instead of running lean or rich).
  • Use an electronic engine control unit (ECU) combined with multiple sensors to manage the air-fuel ratio, idle speed and valve timing to ensure a stoichiometric ratio (everything is consumed in a perfect reaction).
 

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Tightening up the machining tolerances and modifying the carb settings allows it to more accurately manage the air-fuel mix ratio and minimize unburnt fuel and incomplete combustion.
Basically, in simple terms this comes across to me as...Make said engine run as lean as possible while still getting the job done. No arguement here, the facts show it does reduce emissions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
I finished preparing the Sportsman inverter. It started right up. It's not loud, but it's a tiny little engine. The meter showed it was outputting 125 VAC at 59.9 Hz with no load. I put the scope on it. I have a Rigol scope, but it's a little weird. For some reason, inverters with floating neutrals really seem to confuse it somewhat. I think it's a grounding issue of some kind. It's finicky about probes. Next time I take a reading, I will use the Hanmatek. It seems the least fussy of the scopes I have. I was able to stabilize the signal and this is what I got:

Black Slope Screenshot Font Line


That was what I was expecting. It's a typical inverter signal. With modest loads, it should do fine.

I looked at the carb. It has a flat, square base. There appears to be no easy way to access it and no apparent means to manually drain the bowl, like with the larger inverters. That was a bit of bummer. I'll have to Google to see if there's some way to drop the bowl that isn't too difficult. I like to drain the carb completely and spray a bit of carb cleaner before buttoning everything up. I find that really helps prevent the carbs from gumming up when not used for a while.
 
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