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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I'm thinking of buying the DuroMax XP9000iH either to use with my existing 30-amp inlet and interlock or install an ATS. I'd love to hear from some people who have this generator:

1. Anyone using this generator with an ATS? It has an ATS outlet and according to the Q&A on their website it's an 8-wire setup. I e-mailed their support asking for a wiring diagram. Anyone know what ATS are compatible with this generator?

2. What does the ATS plug actually look like? Is there a standardized plug end I can buy that's compatible? Their manual on this model has zero information and the photos all have a cap on the plug inlet.

3. I would use this generator solely with propane (I currently have 4x40lb tanks). Being that this generator comes propane ready and is ATS ready/remote start, is there any concern about having propane hooked up and open all the time?

I'm looking at this as a poor man's standby generator. I don't have natural gas nor do I have a good place to put a propane tank in the ground with proper setbacks from the house and property line, so installing even a small standby generac isn't in the cards. I figure worst case if I can't find a suitable ATS I could still fire it up with the remote starter and flip the interlock, saving me the time of going outside and pull starting my current generator.

Thanks for your help!
 

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Little I know about ATS, I think you're looking at significant cost for unit and installation and not sure what advantage it would offer? You have a 30A connection, 7200W, and presumably you're comfortable using that in an outage. Do you have this unit in a generator shed wired and plumbed so it can start and run while no one is at home? While you "theoretically" have 9,000W, if you can access it, are the breakers aligned in your load center for just critical loads or is the anticipated ATS going to also be wired to accomplish this? IF the ATS is also going to be doing load shedding, the cost just went up considerably. You can have a whole house unit, requiring you do nothing in an outage but wait a little bit for power to be supplied, or you're going to have some level of involvement.
 

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There's absolutely nothing written about them.... nothing about the capabilities, pinouts, or even a list of compatible ATS.

I guess they're still emailing the Chinese manufacturer for info. lol

Westinghouse has an "ST Switcth" ATS, which can no more than power a couple of appliances up to 20A. It's nowhere the type that you can use as your main transfer panel.

When I think of ATS integration with a genset, it should be able to start the generator during a power failure and switch back to grid power when power resumes. It will also shutdown the generator after that.

I have a very basic ATS. All it does is automatically switch to grid or generator (with the latter being priority). Everything else is manual (Starting the genset and switching on the main breakers).
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Little I know about ATS, I think you're looking at significant cost for unit and installation and not sure what advantage it would offer? You have a 30A connection, 7200W, and presumably you're comfortable using that in an outage. Do you have this unit in a generator shed wired and plumbed so it can start and run while no one is at home? While you "theoretically" have 9,000W, if you can access it, are the breakers aligned in your load center for just critical loads or is the anticipated ATS going to also be wired to accomplish this? IF the ATS is also going to be doing load shedding, the cost just went up considerably. You can have a whole house unit, requiring you do nothing in an outage but wait a little bit for power to be supplied, or you're going to have some level of involvement.
I'm only looking to power up about 6 circuits and I have a sub panel already in place with most of these circuits and could move the other circuits over easily. I would have the ATS wired just to power the sub panel. Ideally I'd like an ATS and panel in one just due to space constraints. I'm pouring a concrete pad and building a small generator shed (not fully enclosed, just a roof and two concrete block walls) where the generator and propane tanks can live and run from, and I'm going to do this regardless of whether or not I put in an ATS or keep a manual transfer switch. I had a brief outage the other day and debated hooking up the generator, but in most cases the outage is going to be shorter than the time it would take me to take the generator from the garage to my backyard where the inlet box is, grab a propane tank and regulator/hose and connect it and the power cord. Of course you never know if the power is going to be out for 3 minutes or 3 hours. Additionally, I live in South Florida and have hurricanes to worry about, I would like to be able to start the generator without having to go out in wind and rain.

I'm pretty much decided on the XP9000iH and would mount it outside under cover of the generator shed hooked up to propane supply and connected to the inlet 24/7. I see two options with this generator:

1. Keep using the interlock on my main panel and during an outage use the remote start fob to start the generator and then flip on the breakers I want to power. When power is back I can shut down the generator with the fob.
2. Use the capability of the generator to be controlled by an ATS and power up a sub panel with a handful of circuits. No load shedding needed here as I've already measured the load of all of my devices with a kill-a-watt and a clamp meter. Running load will be less than 3,000w (mini split, 2 computers, a few led lights, 3 newer refrigerators, and a hybrid water heater in heat pump only mode).
 

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Sounds like you have a plan. "roof and two concrete block walls...." Obviously can't visualize what you mean, but sounds like you'd better have a water proof cover for the generator when it's not running, rain (water) which is usually accompanied by wind, has a way of getting into places you don't want it, e.g. connectors and an inverter has lots of those waiting to be contaminated/degraded. My generator is kept in the barn, if there's an OMG forecast I move it to the covered front porch with a cover, if needed it's there and wind blown rain isn't an issue if I need it.
 

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I'm only looking to power up about 6 circuits and I have a sub panel already in place with most of these circuits and could move the other circuits over easily. I would have the ATS wired just to power the sub panel. Ideally I'd like an ATS and panel in one just due to space constraints. I'm pouring a concrete pad and building a small generator shed (not fully enclosed, just a roof and two concrete block walls) where the generator and propane tanks can live and run from, and I'm going to do this regardless of whether or not I put in an ATS or keep a manual transfer switch. I had a brief outage the other day and debated hooking up the generator, but in most cases the outage is going to be shorter than the time it would take me to take the generator from the garage to my backyard where the inlet box is, grab a propane tank and regulator/hose and connect it and the power cord. Of course you never know if the power is going to be out for 3 minutes or 3 hours. Additionally, I live in South Florida and have hurricanes to worry about, I would like to be able to start the generator without having to go out in wind and rain.

I'm pretty much decided on the XP9000iH and would mount it outside under cover of the generator shed hooked up to propane supply and connected to the inlet 24/7. I see two options with this generator:

1. Keep using the interlock on my main panel and during an outage use the remote start fob to start the generator and then flip on the breakers I want to power. When power is back I can shut down the generator with the fob.
2. Use the capability of the generator to be controlled by an ATS and power up a sub panel with a handful of circuits. No load shedding needed here as I've already measured the load of all of my devices with a kill-a-watt and a clamp meter. Running load will be less than 3,000w (mini split, 2 computers, a few led lights, 3 newer refrigerators, and a hybrid water heater in heat pump only mode).
build like you would for a storm shelter....
ultra HD on every thing on the structure.....
also maybe run FAT power wires to the house so you could upgrade at a later date...
the smallest we use is 6/4 wire on the gen inlets.....
if you are running plastic conduit i would run heavy feeder wire.....
like 4/0 aluminum like they have for trailer parks.
all conductors are covered and works well for up to 200 amps...
and the stuff is cheap.

and remember to make sure to do locates before you dig.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sounds like you have a plan. "roof and two concrete block walls...." Obviously can't visualize what you mean, but sounds like you'd better have a water proof cover for the generator when it's not running, rain (water) which is usually accompanied by wind, has a way of getting into places you don't want it, e.g. connectors and an inverter has lots of those waiting to be contaminated/degraded. My generator is kept in the barn, if there's an OMG forecast I move it to the covered front porch with a cover, if needed it's there and wind blown rain isn't an issue if I need it.
It makes a lot more sense in my head! One open side is going to be up against my property's brick perimeter wall (spaced ~4" away), so that will serve as a wind/rain break. The other open side faces my house. It's a pretty sheltered area but I will close it in if I have a problem with wind driven rain. I would prefer it to be open since I will be running the generator and storing propane underneath it, plus being open should help with heat build up, and boy does it get hot here in the summer.

The structure will be going on the side of my house near my pool pump and pool heater, it's sort of a utility area at this point. Planning for simple block walls + stucco finish and a low pitch flat roof.
Window Rectangle Building House Wood


The only thing left at this point is for me to figure out if I can find a suitable ATS for use with this generator. My wife works from home so I would prefer a solution that doesn't require any manual intervention. If I can't find a suitable ATS then I think I'm going to remove my generator interlock and swap out my sub panel to a transfer panel. Remote starting the generator and dealing with one panel would be a much quicker solution than what I have now.

Product Output device Rectangle Gas Printer accessory
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For anyone interested in this model, below is the diagram DuroMax provided me for the ATS port. They don't have any recommendation on any compatible ATS.
Rectangle Font Parallel Slope Number

Looks like GX16-8 is the correct plug for this
Tire Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive parking light Camera accessory


I'll update this post if I can find any additional information.
 

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Hi,

I've search the web alot to get more information regarding the ATS option on this generator. Did you found any solution to get it automatically stated ? Have you opt for an alternative solution ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi,

I've search the web alot to get more information regarding the ATS option on this generator. Did you found any solution to get it automatically stated ? Have you opt for an alternative solution ?
Aside from the limited information I posted above that the manufacturer provided, no I gave up on using the ATS. Instead I bought a remote controlled battery disconnect relay, this unit on Amazon in specific. I can turn the generator on remotely by using the remote control for the battery disconnect and then the generator remote start remote control. The manufacturer claims that the disconnect only pulls 0.005a and I have a 10w solar panel/trickle charger on the battery.
 

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I believe there was another thread explaining how each of the pins work. I'll try to look for it and post a link here. EDIT: Nope. It was for a different gen and pinouts.

But I think this is an excellent project for an Arduino... All the relevant pins are provided on post 8.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I believe there was another thread explaining how each of the pins work. I'll try to look for it and post a link here. EDIT: Nope. It was for a different gen and pinouts.

But I think this is an excellent project for an Arduino... All the relevant pins are provided on post 8.
I thought about it but it's unfortunately a bit beyond my expertise when it comes to electronics and I didn't want to risk damaging the control board on the generator by experimenting. Another issue was finding an ATS that I knew was 100% compatible with the generator ATS input. I shared the pin-out hoping it could help someone though!

I ended up just installing a manual transfer sub panel in my house and it takes me less than a minute to start up the generator remotely from the comfort of my house and walk into the garage to flip the breakers over. I'm actually quite happy with this setup, my goal was to eliminate the setup time and be able to run a generator during a hurricane and immediately after without having to go outside.
 

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Google helped me find on my search for more details on the Duromax ATS port plug connector, it’s wiring diagram and pin description. I have a solar hybrid solar system that uses my electric start, manual choke ancient gas generator as a nighttime backup. As many solar systems do, the signal to start the generator is a 2 wire. The generator or Automatic Generator Start handles all of the starting, stabilization and stopping the generator in response to that simple open/closed signal. I see enough dual fuel (want to switch to propane only) with ATS to consider making the upgrade, now I need to get the phrasing right to waste thru the internet.

I want to start with a supplier who makes the ATS compatible with Duromax, anybody find one?

Scott
 

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Google helped me find on my search for more details on the Duromax ATS port plug connector, it’s wiring diagram and pin description.
Did you find a diagram that is different than what is posted in comment #8 above? The reason I am asking is because I'm not sure that diagram is correct.

If I am correct in saying that, then there are two things that can fairly easily be checked. First, use a multimeter (gen not running) to find out if pin 7 gets grounded when the 3-pole breaker is turned on. That is the sole reason for the 3-pole breaker as far as I know. It lets the ATS know whether or not the breaker is on. The ATS will not start the gen if that breaker is off (pin 7 will be open).

If the first check passes muster, then the second check is to look at the wiring on the back of the ATS plug and see if there is a wire going to pin 8. Unfortunately, some disassembly would be required for this check. No need to do this if the first check does not show a ground on pin 7 when turning the 3-pole breaker on.

The problem with DuroMax is that they don't supply wiring diagrams or parts lists for most of their stuff.

ATS compatible with Duromax, anybody find one?
I don't think anyone has posted about a compatible ATS if they found one.
 

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I left an online message to Duromax asking about the wiring diagram. So far, your diagram is the only one I've uncovered.

I haven't bought the generator yet, and I won't until I have some confidence of being able to auto start it with some intermediate device triggered by the 2 wire signal from my Outback Radian Inverter's generator control system You do bring up some good points. Some of the signals must be related to the interlocking of the generator and transfer switch position. For my application, I would need the generator to by-pass that check, as all of that control is taken
care of inside my inverter. The generator is one of the AC inputs into the inverter system (grid is the other input).

I've gathered up a collection of potential devices:
PSP KTWS-1 Kohler RXT R-Bus to 2-Wire Start Converter $475
Maxgeek ASM18G Generator Controller Diesel Genset Start Control Module $53
Maxgeek HGM501 Generator Controller Gasoline Genset Auto Start Control Module $92
Maxgeek Generator 5 Ways Remote Start Stop Control Genset Controller w/ Antenna $42
Automatic generator control unit with remote start (2 wire start function) $95
Automatic Engine Generator Control Module PCB, Remote Control / Wireless start (AECM105V ) $53
Generator Control Module AECM104FBSi $94
DEEP SEA ELECTRONICS PLC DSE701 MKII CONTROLLER
GTR-17 Generator Controller Electronic Control Module w/Auto Start Stop Function $53
Atkinson Electronics GSCM-Mini

Generator Controller Automatic Start Module DSE701AS for DeepSea $76

GSCM is mentioned in my inverter's manual as an interface for any 3 wire generators. They have several generator's mentioned:
Product Font Material property Parallel Design



If only we could find that Duromax followings the electrical diagram of one of 'these'

Scott

PS I emailed my desires to Atkinson's and will up this note if I learn anything helpful.
 

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Looks like GX16-8 is the correct plug for this
View attachment 11156
Not to rain on our parade, but when I look at the picture
Electronic instrument Audio equipment Font Gadget Electronic component


I see 7 pins....

Now with photoshop, what we need is confirmation from somebody who has physically laid eyes on a real machine??


In the positive news direction, I've traded emails with
Atkinson Electronics Inc
14 West Vine Street
Salt Lake City, UT 84107
800-261-3602

And they make a controller that will drive this generator:
Font Smile Rectangle Circle Number


It can be ordered with our without the relay needed. Since I don't already have the 'optional' generator relay modules, he's going to send me a revised drawing for my Outback Radian system.

Still hunting the world for the cable &| diagram.

Scott
 

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OP has found a manual solution, but for those trying to autostart with an inverter, Magnum Inverters' support folks (now Sensata) put out a lot of great diagrams for 2- and 5-wire starting, to be used with their AGS module.


Specifically, perhaps the Champion (5-wire) or Westinghouse (2-wire) start diagrams would help with the Duromax unit. You might even ask the Magnum support folks to produce a diagram for the Duromax inverter-generator unit, if you can be the intermediary between Magnum and Duromax. Magnum support folks are usually very responsive. I have their AGS module, left over from a previous Generac installation ... it easily started/stopped via 2-wire setup (no relays needed in that scenario).

Hope this helps ...
 
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