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45KV 220volt Generator

3712 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  cedgo
I work for a small hotel which has an older "Generac" generator.
The natural-gas powered short block Chevy V8, with 670 hrs on the clock, runs like a champ.
The Generac control system, however is starting to get finicky.
Sometimes it won't start without a little jiggling.
I feel like the best course would be to replace the control system, but I don't like the idea of using generac.
Any recommendations for other brands of controllers?
That and any other input would be welcome.
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Worth a try. Disconnect power, loosen then tighten all electrical connections.
If you ever want it to work correctly again you better be talking to Generac. You could burn down your hotel if you jury rig or do something wrong. At least have a qualified electrician do it. Roger
Sometimes it won't start without a little jiggling.
Jiggling what? Will it start an run in auto when called for, or do you mean your having trouble getting it to turn over? Or will it turn over an not start? You can change the panel to something different but it's not a simple change. The Voltage regulator, an field start/excitation circuits are built into those panels. Generac's are not as simple as most (quality) unit's are, to change the control panel, but again it can be done. I'd just fix the old one if it were me, might be as simple as one or both toggle switch's, which is common.
Hey KRE,
Came here looking for a pro. Would you mind a question?
Have a Dayton Model # 3W015G generator coupled to a 10HP B&S engine.
I believe the "bridge rectifier?" has failed. Could you advise on a replacement or fix?
Part #51760-1. Been all over the net with no results. Not the brightest bulb here.
cedgo, You can check the bridge with a simple meter, as it is only made up of diodes. If it is a full wave, there will be 4 hook up points in a square. One of the points will have a dot, flat spot, or other identifying mark, that the others do not have. The one with the mark will be the D/C +, the one in the opposite 45* corner will be the D/C -, the other two will be A/C inputs. All A/C power flows to the D/C + only. Any reverse reading an the bridge is defective. If it's static, you can replace it easily. If it's rotating you will have to dig deep an try to locate one that is about the same size, an mounting style. If you do a search on, Bridge rectifiers, you can find a suitable replacement most every time. Case in point Generac, they will tell you some parts are not serviceable or sold for repair ie, Automatic Transfer Switch, coil clearing contacts. They will sell you the hole mechanism, which is more money than a complete new switch. A customer had some fail on his 400amp ATS, I dug around an found the replacement micro switch's for 98 cents each. Customer total bill was $265.00 (travel, labor an parts)New replacement ATS installed at the site would have been, $4800.00. Some manufacturers, are only in the making an selling business, with planned obsolescence as their driving goal.
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Thanks for the information sir! Assume this is the static, because it measures approx 3"X2"X1" and bolts to the frame. Will test this weekend.
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