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Two units are like flying an airplane with two engines: if one fails, the other gets you home.

Been there, done that.

Also, you can use the units in sequence: when one gets low on fuel, start the second one to take over while the hot one cools down and is ready for refueling and, if due, oil changing.

Pay you money. Take your choice.
 

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Two units are like flying an airplane with two engines: if one fails, the other gets you home.
Good analogy. The aircraft industry, along with the space program uses redundancy to increase safety. Dual magnetos and spark plugs, multiple fuel pumps, radios, instruments, etc. It works the same with anything else. Cars, tools, guns, etc. The more you have, the better your chances are of not being without when you require it the most.
 

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YUP!
amen!
always have a back up plan...
for me i use 4 smaller gens..
i run them in parallel.
and have meters on the main breaker panel so i can watch run power.
if i need more power i fire up another gen...
99% of the time i can get by with a eu2200i generator in the spring fall and winter to power the whole house.
summer is tricky with air con...
so a least 2 gens or 3 if it is super hot out like over 100 deg f...
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Appreciate all the replies. I'm now leaning towards one "larger" ~$1000 generator plugged into the house circuit, whether that's a transfer switch, input box, or a Generlink. I'll have to figure out the best option based on what I can afford.

2 generators was only a consideration to use a smaller inverter for electronics. If the larger, higher quality ones (e.g. Westinghouse) are suitable for running electronics, then I don't need the smaller inverter. And 2 larger generators for redundancy is going to go over budget with the other factors like installing a transfer switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I wired a 50 amp plug to a 50 amp breaker in my main panel. Installed a hardware interlock on main and 50 amp breaker that generator is wired to. It allows only one or the other to be live at a time. WGen9500DF hooked up to my natural gas and it runs my entire house including a/c and all appliance, electronics as normal. I too am on the Texas Gulf coast and bought mine after the last hurricane threat and it came in handy this past freeze and power outage.
What sort of AC are you running? Is it something like a window unit, or a whole-home HVAC system? I have a 3.5 ton system and the search results I've been able to find indicate a very large (at least 14kW) generator would be required.
 

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What sort of AC are you running? Is it something like a window unit, or a whole-home HVAC system? I have a 3.5 ton system and the search results I've been able to find indicate a very large (at least 14kW) generator would be required.
2.5 Ton whole house system.
 

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the smaller gens run on less NG..
lol
yea i have tri fuel hondas eu2000i and eu22000i and then for larger power honda eu7000is generators.
and yes NG rocks!
no need to store large amounts of gasoline and expect it to be pure after 5 years of sitting!
GRIN!
same on LP.
but you have to store that...
kinda tricky in most city's these days...
the fire guys do not like large LP tanks in town...
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I wired a 50 amp plug to a 50 amp breaker in my main panel. Installed a hardware interlock on main and 50 amp breaker that generator is wired to. It allows only one or the other to be live at a time. WGen9500DF hooked up to my natural gas and it runs my entire house including a/c and all appliance, electronics as normal. I too am on the Texas Gulf coast and bought mine after the last hurricane threat and it came in handy this past freeze and power outage.
The WGen9500DF looked like a good option but is probably overkill for me. I won't be running the HVAC system, just a small room unit to keep us as comfortable as possible if when the power goes out. I wouldn't even plan to use other power hogs like the water heater or stove. We have a camping stove and a small stockpile of fuel cans. Based on my loads tally spreadsheet, the max running loads if only running one small appliance at a time (i.e. only Mr. Coffee or toaster or microwave at once) is just under 5kW, and peak just under 10kW. I would likely go with the WGen7500DF or similar. My electrician recommended Duromax, I think the XP10000HX would suit my needs.

Why bother with two units when one will do the job cheap/easy/clean/quiet?

WEN GN625i 6250-Watt RV and Transfer-Switch-Ready 120V/240V Open Frame Inverter Generator

Put a L14-30R inlet into your home panel.
I'm really leery of an inverter of that size that goes for around $700. TGTBT?

better off using those little portable room air con units when on gen set...
way less fuel on a smaller gen set.
I concur, no need to upsize drastically just to cool the entire house. Our 12k BTU portable and a couple box fans to move it around is all that's necessary.
 

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take inventory on the exact power needs, 120 vac and if you need the 240 vac for like well pump etc.
and report back.
i like to have at least 50% more gen than you need...
so if you need 2000 watts at 120 vac then use a 4000 watts worth of generator.
that way you are not working the gen to death...

for me in the winter i can run on 760 watts! no kidding!
that is with fridge freezer furnace fan and computers and lights.
it was way too close for the little eu1000i gen so i upgraded to the eu2200i honda.

for hot summer that is a different thing...
so i set up the system so i could run up to 4 of the eu2200i gens if i need them for ac units and dehumidifiers.
so far all i have had to run is two gens as the super hot has not been here when the power is out..
but i was able to switch from the mbr ac unit to the LR ac unit to keep the temps under 75 deg f.

I will be adding a couple of 10-13 k btu portable ac units this season and use the large dryer style vents for the hot air exhaust of the ac unit.
still shopping the good deal and good model on those yet... i would love to find maybe a good mini split inverter unit that is 120 vac... but so far they are not name brand units....

pm me if you need help with the power calculation!
or the gen inlet.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
And now another issue to add to the equation... the more I read about "protecting sensitive electronics with a UPS," the more I question that because I'm seeing a lot of posts about UPSs being especially sensitive to less than ideal generator power.

The UPSs I have are the $100-200 range Cyberpower that their site explicitly state are not "generator compatible." This is having me more strongly consider a smaller inverter with smooth stable power just for the UPSs that uphold all of the electronics, then a mid-size non-inverter for the heavier load appliances.
 

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I'm running Cyberpower Battery Backup on both of our desktops, monitors, and printers, with both of my Westinghouse 9,500's. They operate just fine. Even when my laptop is plugged into it as well. Because of that I've long left the whole "clean power" concern in my rear view mirror.
 

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The UPS units I've seen seem to have square-wave characteristics similar to my cheap inverters used for camping. On the other hand, the inverters seem to work OK for me, including operating the camper's 120VAC refrigerator from the 12VDC battery while on the road. But as far as "clean" power, I wonder.
 

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The UPS units I've seen seem to have square-wave characteristics similar to my cheap inverters used for camping. On the other hand, the inverters seem to work OK for me, including operating the camper's 120VAC refrigerator from the 12VDC battery while on the road. But as far as "clean" power, I wonder.
My truck has a built-in inverter but I've never really used it. It maxes out at 400w, so it's not exactly a powerhouse. There's not really much you can do with it. But I have the same concerns. My understanding is that you can use square wave inverters with electronics for short periods of time with no issues since most have their own DC converters.
 

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I am at the age where I don't worry about stuff like I did when I was younger. And generally speaking, over thought everything. Now I generally employ the, "I I W I D W A I" principal. "If It Works I Don't Worry About It". Thus far it has served me well. Nothing has ever been damaged. And it frees up my head for other, more pleasurable thoughts.
 

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The UPS units I've seen seem to have square-wave characteristics similar to my cheap inverters used for camping. On the other hand, the inverters seem to work OK for me, including operating the camper's 120VAC refrigerator from the 12VDC battery while on the road. But as far as "clean" power, I wonder.
Here you go.
APC and Cyber-Power UPS.
APC.jpg


C-P.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Here you go.
APC and Cyber-Power UPS.
Thanks for pointing those out. I started reading posts this weekend about the various output waveforms for gens and UPSs and was getting my shorts in a knot worrying about it. My last post was essentially getting at the UPSs supposedly not handling voltage instability from a genset, especially with variable loads cycling on/off affecting the gen's output.
* pulls little bit of remaining hair out in frustration *
 

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Thanks for pointing those out. I started reading posts this weekend about the various output waveforms for gens and UPSs and was getting my shorts in a knot worrying about it. My last post was essentially getting at the UPSs supposedly not handling voltage instability from a genset, especially with variable loads cycling on/off affecting the gen's output.
* pulls little bit of remaining hair out in frustration *
You can lower the sensitivity to incoming power quality on these UPS units either manually or using the software for them.
 
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