I have an old EU3000is.
I tried to start it this weekend, in anticipation of winter, and possible use. It barely started, and really only liked choke pulled all the way out. I had to run the choke back and forth a bit to keep it running at all. To me, it seemed like a clogged up carb.
I'm handy, but not experienced.
I took the carb out, and was horrified how clogged up the main jet and nozzle were (parts 11,28)
I cleaned out the pilot jet (parts 29) New O ring for that.
New O ring for bowl, as well as the drain screw.
I cleaned off a ton of varnish and debris from the float and bowl.
I was not sure how to get part #5
out, also labeled a pilot screw, but I went back and forth on it, and sprayed a ton of brake cleaner through the area where it enters the carb. I was careful to open up all the passages I could see into the carb, including some really tiny ones in the wall.
I put on a new fuel hose, as that was brittle.
I put in a fresh plug, the old one looked fine. I drained all the oil, and put in fresh 10W-30 Mobil One.
I got new gaskets, the only issue there I ran into, I can not really explain, but don't think its the problem. Upon reassembly, the thick metal gasket spacer with rubber coating spaced the choke plate to far away, so there was binding, and the choke would not move. I doubled up a pair of paper gaskets in that spot, and that relieved the choke movement. No passages blocked there.
I bought a small quantity of ethanol free gas from Menards, just to start it up, and store it. The tank was completely empty of the old gas.
It STILL only runs well with choke pulled out all the way.
There seems to be a strainer in the bottom of the tank. Leads right to the valve on/off for fuel.
When I shut off the fuel, and let it run dry, there is still some gas in the bowl when I open the drain screw to the line, and drain it.
Is it possible the flow is THAT bad through the intake strainer? Does that item function like a fuel filter that I should swap it out?
(I guess I could test this by bypassing the fuel tank, with a longer hose, and just feed off a funnel and nipple to the carb direct.... )
There is no conventional inline fuel filter as I've seen on other small engines.
I'm comfortable taking it all apart again, and looking at the carb after running it, I suppose some debris may have gotten into it, but it really doesn't seem to run THAT much better than before the cleaning, despite the horrific amount of varnish and plugged holes in the carb.
Looking for suggestions, other than bypass the fuel tank, and go direct. I'll give that a try, and report back...
I bought a fair amount of parts for this, including a nice carb cleaning kit with probes/cleaners of all sizes. I'm not against buying a whole fresh carb, but it seems a shame at this point.
Not sure how I would test to be certain that the electronic throttle is functioning right. I read of one situation where someone pinched wires on that harness and lost function. I guess I could take a meter to the plug and try to check continuity, but it seems unlikely, I was pretty careful.
Open to suggestions.... thanks in advance.