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Honda eu7000i fuel drain

20K views 47 replies 16 participants last post by  Revup67 
#1 ·
In that ever-exciting quest to make my future life simpler, I want to tap into the fuel feed from the Honda 7000i tank to the engine -- and put in a valve or a T with a line to a valve to make draining the tank easier. Hopefully without lighting things up with a leak or other unexpected bonus to my upgrade.

Has anyone taken the top off the beastie to see what may lurk beneath to prevent me from doing this? Any reason NOT to (risk of fire isn't necessary a 'reason', per se)?

I look forward to the hive mind for encouragement or belittlement.
 
#2 ·
It's a darn good idea. I have drain petcocks on my generators.


I have no idea how to do it on that model, but I'm sure it's doable. Consult your owner's manual, or a parts diagram/exploded view.


Do it right so there are no leaks. Locate the petcock in an out of the way place so it doesn't unintentionally get opened. Permanently attach a hose of sufficient length to it to facilitate easy and safe draining. Do all these things, and you'll minimize the fire risk.


BTW, if your goal is to assure that no gas is in the generator that can go stale, be sure to run the carburetor dry after draining the tank.
 
#3 ·
I think it's a good idea.

If you want some extra protection against an accidental gas leak, you could put a fuel quick-connect on the drain line. I have some of these, they are designed to avoid any fuel spraying when disconnecting them, and they stay sealed off when disconnected. Atwood part 8838US6.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Attwood-Universal-Sprayless-Connector-Set-3-8-Hose/30652710

That way, even if you accidentally opened the drain valve, nothing would come out unless you also had the mating line connected.

I agree with also running the carb dry after draining the tank.
 
#4 ·
Thanks fellas -- I'll see if I can chase down an exploded view for disassembly. This model is VERY compact.

Bonus is that it's fuel injected, no carbs. Still will run it dry - can't imagine there's a fuel rail, but I've never been into one of these small FI units. The owners manual goes so far as to walk through lubing the upper cylinder correctly for long-term storage. Honda is doing a more impressive job with their equipment servicing chapter: brushing out the spark arrestor, battery maint, etc. Even a wiring schematic. Just no exploded view :(

Is it appropriate to use this forum for making documents accessible? I'd be happy to upload the owners manual for this model. If so, what is the upper size limit the forum admin has set?
 
#6 ·
Found exploded views at partstree.com
https://www.partstree.com/parts/hon...ade-in-india-sn-eejd-1000001-above/fuel-tank/
Sure would love to harvest the whole collection or a service manual, but it gets me on my way a piece at a time.
You can always access all the parts diagrams and the Users Manual on the Honda Power Equipment site: Honda Power Equipment - Parts Look Up - Official Site
If you put your drain in the Fuel Line (10) between the fuel pump and the injector, I guess the fuel pump will assist in the draining process. Alternatively, you could add a standard tank petcock to a new hole at the low point of the tank near the fuel pump pickup and drain the tank directly.
 
#7 ·
I don't know the answer, but I wonder if the fuel pump would be suitable for draining the contents of the tank like that. I'd expect it's designed more for low-flow, high-pressure. But I'm happy to learn. Just inferring by how it would typically be used.

If the only outlet from the tank is after the fuel pump, then perhaps it becomes simpler/safer to just siphon the tank out, to get the bulk of it, then run the engine until it dies?

I don't know what kind of pressure the fuel pump puts out, but tapping into its output means that your modification needs to withstand maybe 30+ (? I don't know) psi of gas without leaking. Very different than a gravity-fed line at likely under 0.5 psi. Drilling a new hole in the tank seems like a chance for a corrosion starting-point, or getting metal bits into the fuel pump.

Though not elegant, I have one of these siphon pumps, for $8 it's worked pretty well. There are plenty of other pump options too, Harbor Freight sells a battery-powered one for $10, which is rated for gas. Not a slick solution, to be sure, but pretty much zero risk to the machine, and minimal effort.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APU2YLI/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
#8 ·
Though not elegant, I have one of these siphon pumps, for $8 it's worked pretty well. There are plenty of other pump options too, Harbor Freight sells a battery-powered one for $10, which is rated for gas. Not a slick solution, to be sure, but pretty much zero risk to the machine, and minimal effort.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APU2YLI/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I looked at the price of that pipe from the tank to the pump. >$200! So went to Lowes yesterday and found your hand pump for $4.98. Winner. I'm over-engineering this solution. KISS wins out and I'll pump it out the old fashioned way.
 
#11 ·
I have a big that will run 4-6 hours on a full tank of just under 5 gal, depending on load. It is a 25hp with carburetor. I put a t in the feed line , followed by a valve and line to drain. It has a factory installed fuel shutoff so I can run the carb dry in just a few minutes. The reason I wanted the drain line is that sometimes I go several years not consuming a tank of gas. I like to keep the tank full to help prevent rust in the metal tank, and like to replace it at times to keep the gas fresh, or relatively so. That IMHO is a good reason to put a drain in, otherwise I might have to let it run for several hours to empty the tank.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Captain Ramius, I too have one of those red bulb siphons and it sure has come in handy, especially lightering gas from various containers after several hurricanes. I've been wanting to buy a backup, and you link provided the opportunity!

Is the $10 pump the one with a bulb that you depress to get the siphon working? If so, how much gas do you think may be left if you do siphon the gas from tank?
If you tilt the generator so that the fuel gathers in one of the corners of the tank it leaves less fuel than three red shop rags can absorb. I stuff them down in there in the low spot of the tank that is around the fuel pick-up for a couple of minutes, then fish them out with either a long needle nose pliers or long forceps. Reinstall the debris screen and leave the cap off the tank overnight and tomorrow it is dry as a bone.

One suggestion on the drain petcock: drill a hole in the valve's handle so you can safety-wire it closed.
 
#18 ·
go 2 x the dose on the stabil we have some at 10 years and still is ok.
just make sure to leave the cans or tank full if you plan on storage in the gen tank.

you can also drain the total system... and fog the steel tank with marine fog oil to keep it from rusting when empty.

just remember this eu7000i honda gen has an electric fuel pump at 40+ psi
that is built in the tank
 
#45 ·
As I was reading the earlier posts I was sure someone would chime in with some sanity. After spending big bucks on the EU7kis, just do it right. The above is spot on and the only other thing I can add is to use non-ethanol gas. If not always then have as low an amount of ethanol as you can get before filling with non-ethanol and Stabile for storage. Then with the good stuff in the tank be sure to start and run the generator so that it is all through the fuel system. Refill but not higher than the specified tank limit. At any time you can pull the unit out of storage and it is ready to rock-n-roll. If you drain the system or think you have, you don't know what will come back to bite you when it is needed in a moment.

I would advise against a "tee" in the line after the fuel pump.

Not to divert from the OP but ask yourself this: Why can you have ethanol gas in a vehicle that hasn't been run for a year and it starts and runs but in a small engine there are problems? Hmmm?
 
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#21 ·
I fill up four 4 gal containers of ethanol-free gas (I guess that's E0??) with Sta-Bil at first sign of hurricane for use in generator. I use regular gas for my Gravely zero turn lawn mower and premium octane for my Stihl power equipment too. Should I be using ethanol-free for lawn mower and power equipment too??
 
#22 ·
Depends, its a haul for me to get e0 so I use e10 in my lawn tractor since it consumes a lot of fuel. After my last mow i suck out the e10 with my mityvac and replace it with e0 and run the machine for 10 minutes or so to burn through the last of the e10.

Pretty much all of my Other machines get 91octane e0.
 
#29 · (Edited)
lol do not give them ideas on a LP chain saw!

we have those in the 24 inch concrete floor saws for inside a building..
LARGE GX honda motors running on LP for less fumes inside.
we just use LARGE air handlers on the buildings to control dust and fumes.

we do have hyd chain saws and block cutting saws...
you have to watch the hoses close!

we should look in to pneumatic saws now that the amish are switching over to dewalt air powered.
they are LOUD....
 
#31 · (Edited)
Just to put this out there if the EU7000is uses a submersible fuel pump they tend to require fuel as lubricant (like car fuel pumps) so running out of fuel may do damage to the pump.


seems the recommend filling it up completely for storage.

I tend to fill the tank all the way up with stabilizer in it then rotate it yearly with a hand pump. It has been working great for me so far.
 
#39 ·
I wanted to drain my EU7000is for storage. I tried a hand fuel pump like the one provided and it works. But the Fuel Pump inside the gas tank of the EU7000is sits lower than where the fuel cap provides access.
So it makes it quite difficult to get all of the fuel out. There's also a metal shield in the fill port preventing you from accessing that portion of the tank - pressumably to not damage the fuel pump or fuel guage while filling.

I opted to take the fuel pump out. Then I drained the gas through the fuel pump access. I connected 12v to the fuel pump with it removed for a few seconds to get all the fuel out of the fuel pump. After re-assembly I tried to start the generator with no gas a couple of times to make sure there was no gas left in the high pressure line or the injector.

I probably went overboard here. But oh well. I have confidence there's no gas anywhere! :)


Another alternative I may try next time. You could disconnect the fuel line from the fuel injector. Place that inside a container. Then connect up 12v to the fuel pump to get the pump to drain the tank for you. My only caution there is the Pump is submerged and probably relies on the fuel for cooling. Though I imagine its safe to run these generators out of gas from regular use, so who knows.
 
#41 ·
I'm sorry..I don't have the 12V device you refer too nor am I (or perhaps most people) capable or qualified to disassemble the Fuel Pump on the 7000. I am willing to give the manual pump a try but it appears you've not been largely successful in getting all of the fuel out. Perhaps I could go this route then let the EU7000Is run out of gas? (as one idea).
I spoke with a local Honda dealer today about this concern. They recommended a using an Air Compressor and a Fluid Evacuation tank.. I've been unsuccessful in locating anything so far on this idea such as the 3rd party tank or air compressor component to add to the air compressor and how this operation would work.
PS if anyone cares to offer a youtube video using the gas tapper pump it would likely aid many. I could only find 1 video of an end user illustrating how to drain an EU3000Is which seems rather easy but cannot confirm this process would work with the EU7000Is..thank you for the assistance.
 
#40 ·
great point you need to keep the fuel pump under fuel to stay cool
we try to keep the units at least 1/2 full when on gasoline.
it will make the pump last longer.

and that is one of the reasons for doing NG and LP for primary with the us carbs kit.
it shuts off the fi pump when in NG LP mode.

pm if you need pix of our mods we do here.
 
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