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03-27-2012, 06:36 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 26
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i"m getting closer. got it pumping up to 120 psi in about 15 min. after shut down it is holding pressure a lot longer. after 28 hrs it is at 45 psi. tightened all fittings and replaced gate valve with a ball valve. this i am happy with, as I only use it occasionally, and plan to drain tank down after most uses. not bad for only putting 50 bucks into it. most of which was for a new pressure switch. the rest for a few pipe fittings, check valve, over pressure blow out valve and gauge.
bernie
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08-03-2012, 03:07 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 26
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help!!!!! the last time i fired up the pelton it ran great (about 3 mos ago). last week I needed some air and no pressure. I pulled the head off and noticed some permtex #2 on the piston. (I used it on the head gasket). cleaned everything with brake cleaner and carb cleaner. cut a new head gasket and reassembled with no permatex this time. still no pressure. pulled the line from the pump and ran, no pressure. my thinking is the pump has a ring problem and the blow by is causing the symptom of no pressure. I think the next step is to pull the pump pulley, drain the pump of oil, and remove the bolts I see around the crank shaft and see what happens. I have never pulled a pump apart so I don't know what to expect. any thoughts out there??
thanks,
bernie
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08-03-2012, 07:51 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 136
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If you had Permatex on the piston you probably have some holding one of the valves open. Roger
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08-04-2012, 04:42 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 26
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I agree. I did clean the reed valves, better than I did on the first rebuild. I will pull the head off again(only 4 bolts) and clean, easier than tring to get the piston out to check the rings. but I think that is is my next step.
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08-22-2012, 08:16 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 26
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pulled the head again. still clean and in order as best as I can tell. put it back together and still no go. I may cut another gasket and install 2, one on top of the other. It could be to thin, as the original may have been thicker. if no difference then i think it is ring time.
bernie
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08-25-2012, 10:20 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 39
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Without looking back on comments, can you isolate the tank with pressure sealed in it? This would allow you to test the tank for pin-holes etc. I have a 40 yr old hole in the bottom with the same self-tapping screw and O-Ring solving the leak. A friend suggested leaving it open to allow the moister to drain (since it d/n affect working pressure). Plus, the unit is not left on and used approx monthly.
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08-25-2012, 08:16 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 39
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Sorry for the out of sink post. I d/n see to go to the last post of the 2nd set vs the 1st. Good Luck on checking the rings. I feel you could do something related to a compression test on a combustion engine. Without a plug hole, I feel my rule of thumbs test should give you some indication of workable compression. In testing for bad rings w/o a gauge I learned that I c/n hold the compression on the cyl with my finger or thumb in small engines. Usually that would be less than a reasonable 90–100 psi.
Rings w/n just wear instantly but sticking due to etc could be an issue. Ring gaps should be spaced around the cyl vs in a line or close. A thicker head gasket w/n help IMO unless you d/n have good flat mating surfaces.
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09-06-2012, 08:08 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 26
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found about 2 hrs today to play. thisis how i used the time. soaped up the head gasket and let the pump run. after a few mins i was making bubbles from several places around the head. the 4 head bolts were as tight as I wanted to torque them.
at this point i pulled the head and cleaned it again. crocus cloth on the machined head surface and the brass plate which is separated by the head gasket. cut a new gasket and put it back together again. ran it again and still tiny bubbles.
does anybody have any ideas as what to use for gasket material? any suggestions for a gasket sealer. when i first did this i used permatex #2 and it worked . currently i am cutting gaskets out of felpro rubber-fiber (oil, water , gasoline) part # 3157. i am thinking i should use another gasket material, but what?
thanks,
bernie
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04-03-2013, 07:55 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 26
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had a little time today. pulled the head and cleaned everything. reassymblied after using oil on gasket to help seal. no bubbles, but no pressure either . I think i will double up on gaskets and see what happens.
on another note (just in case ) i bought a spare compressor pump on line. nos riverside (monkey wards) in mint condition. I have a spare motor, so I will plumb to the existing tank and use it.
bernie
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